View from SWFC looking towards the Huangpu River. There's a saying that the way up is harder than the way down, but the view is from the top. Well, this is one view from the top that you don't have to work at, not even to lift a finger to press the elevator button. Instead you are escorted by an attractive stewardess on a flight of fancy in a futuristic bullet-capsule, complete with mood-changing lights, that takes you to the observation deck on the 100th floor of the Shanghai World Financial Centre. Here you can drink in the breathtaking view of the city studded with skyscrapers of all architectural flavours. After your photo ops and kodak moments, you can pick up your mementos, including a bottle opener shaped like the building. Yes, the SWFC is affectionally nicknamed the Bottle Opener by the natives.

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Sussing out the goodies in a pedestrian tunnel. While the above-ground economy booms, the subterranean counterpart in the below-ground linkways at busy road junctions is also thriving. These urban bazaars provide a bare-bones living for enterprising locals as well as itinerant traders from far flung provinces like Xinjiang, Tibet and Mongolia. Operating like guerrilla marketers, they pop up here, there and everywhere, sometimes under the very noses of the authorities. Spreading their wares on sidewalks, overhead pedestrian crossings and underground passages by day, these smooth operators melt away by night. Perhaps city zoning is enforced with a light touch because these activities are not particularly disruptive to the legit biz, and they help prop up the lower-end economy with affordable staples. No overheads for these baubles, bangles and beads.

Cathedrals of consumption tower over the pedestrian traffic. Located off the Bund, Nanjing Lu is a shopping street reserved strictly for human traffic, except for a mini train that takes shoppers from one end to the other, and electric police buggies. With a history stretching back to the Opium War era when it became a conduit for foreign goods, Nanjing Lu is the go-to place for luxury imports, attracting tourists and locals alike. Shoppers can shop till they drop.... into some comfy seats in the many restaurants and cafes to refuel. Sidewalk benches and concrete planter boxes provide more basic respite for the shopper on safari. On your lucky evening, you might chance upon some live jazz sax-player on an upstairs balcony, stirring visions of old Bai Le Men. A foot patrol sends out all the positive vibes. Wind down the day with an evening stroll.

Iconic towers vie for your attention on the Pudong side of the river. Shanghai is built on the banks of the Huangpu River which flows into the estuary of the mighty Yangzijiang (the Yangtze River). A leisurely cruise down the river lets you admire the soaring skyscrapers, among which the Oriental Pearl Tower, Jin Mao Building and Shanghai World Financial Centre were the world's tallest till dethroned by newer builds. Facing off on the opposite bank is the historic Bund with its colonial era architecture. Interspersed on both banks are gleaming condos, hotels and office-mall complexes. This spectacular lineup is punctuated by picturesque old factories, warehouses and quays bustling with the day's business. As you soak in the splendour, your cruiser weaves through an endless stream of barges, launches and small coastal ships. There used to be waterborne electronic billboards beaming their enticing out-of-home messages straight to the riverside residents. Then you might also

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Shopping boulevards keep shopaholics suitably inebriated. In a culture where face is everything, Huaihai Lu and its cousin pedestrian street Nanjing Lu let you play oneupmanship against other haves or have-mores, or even the have-mosts. Wallet-busting establishments of conspicuous consumption line both sides of the street offering signature buys of the rich and famous. New money or old money it gets you all the status stamping your lusting heart can desire. Here and there, and in the side streets, wannabe places cater to those who prefer indulgence lite.

All in a day's work. Talk about a hard day in your climate-controlled cubicle! These folks literally have to eat noodles by the sweat of their brows. Through the millennia neither war nor famine, earthquake or flood or whatever catastrophe that man or nature can cast their way, these descendants of the dragon have triumphed over all. It's written in your 8 numbers of fate. Take it as it comes.

Cafes and salons reset the life of a grand old building It's koo to be here and to be seen in here. Former fit-for-wrecking-ball buildings were gutted and refilled with elegant cafes, salons, restaurants and other fashionable retail biz that nourish body and soul. Across the plaza stands a newbuild for more income disposing. And just a block away, the famed shopping belt of Huaihai Lu for all manner of luxe living. They say if you're tired of London you're tired of life. The same can be said of Shanghai. The plaza leads to a multi-level complex of swanky shops.

A quick bite and it's back to the grind. The income canyon between rich and poor is obvious as you step out of a fancy restaurant and pass these road-side stands dishing out the day's lunch for the proletariat. There's no eat in. Only eat standin' or takeaway. Across the city small eateries serve the countless workers who toil away for subsistence pay. These fast meals help sustain a low wage workforce that fuels the factories that build for the world.

A picturesque labyrinth of alleys crisscross the complex of ornate shophouses. Located inside the old city is Yuyuan Garden, a sprawling multi-generation owned, and multiple-times destroyed-restored real estate comprising placid ponds with willows, rockeries and pavilions. Part of the garden complex, and this is where the diehard tourist heads to, stands an imposing array of buildings packed with shops offering ceramics, herbs, silks and of course tea in all its varieties. Just as plentiful are restaurants, snack bars and tea houses catering to every whim and taste both local and foreign. Narrow and broad alleys between the ornate buildings lead to spacious courtyards where cultural shows and other demos are regular fixtures. Adding to the buzz are the numerous pushcarts flogging a wide assortment of tourist trinkets. Together with the crush of humanity this latter day bazaar offers the sights, sounds and smells that draw tourists hungry for a piece of oldtime action when gold nugge

Seniors make their moves against the backdrop of the city skyline. Morning calm is pierced by the gentle lunging and slashing of seniors exercising with sword in hand on People's Square. Elsewhere others push and pull in slow motion, taking slow deep breaths as they practise tai qi to the twitter of birds in the trees. Then later as shadows fall the elderly pair up and waltz into the balmy night under the stars.

Entranceway to a world of tranquility. Off the bustling streets a man pedals into a quiet lane and a way of life that's little changed over decades. These urban dwellers living in the shadows of the glass and concrete edifices of capitalism are the bottom feeders. However as the city's newly minted wealth trickles down many are enjoying the fruits of their labour in smart outfits, new furnishings, fridge, tv, computer and an upgrade from bicycle to scooter, perhaps. Yes, and that shiny mobile is a must whether you are the chairman or the doorman.

Up there the gridlock below seems far, far away This iconic structure on the bank of the Huangpu River affirms China's coming of age in the 21st century. Housing exhibition halls, observation decks, restaurants and even a boutique hotel, the Oriental Pearl Tower is a must stop on the tourist itinerary. Adjacent, visitors can stroll the promenade looking across to the historic Bund on the opposite bank, then pit for coffee at swanky cafes or quaff steins of fresh brew at the microbrewery.

Soak up the nostalgia for the romance of travel A woman manning a push cart takes five, she waiting for custom, they for the train to pull in. Like coach tours, train travel brings you up close to the places between cities. An hour's ride will take you through verdant farmlands and factory estates to Suzhou, famed for its picturesque old buildings lining an ancient network of canals, and aptly dubbed the "Venice of the East" by Marco Polo.

Pampered bikes at a shelter. Others do with only a plastic bag over the seat. All over the city you'll find pavements dotted with bicycle sheds to protect them from the elements as shop assistants, office and factory workers attend to their day jobs. Those not served by the excellent metro and bus system take to two-wheeling as a practical solution to their daily commute, especially those living in untouched territory with their narrow twisty alleyways. At peak hours pedestrians have to navigate these crowded pavements as man and machine jostle for right of way.

Guerilla marketing A rusty steel barrel on wheels serves as sales counter, display and storage all in one. Compact enough for a lightning get away should the cops show up. And nothing to cry over if forced to ditch. Today the street corner, tomorrow the corner office. You never know, dreams can come true to those who dare to dream.

Cascading escalators lead up the multi-chamber atria to a world of supreme luxury. Its name is Super Brand, its size is more mega. This mammoth mall opposite the Oriental Pearl Tower oozes luxury from every corner of its 15 floors of shopping, feasting and entertainment. Practically all brands prefixed with designer are assembled here and that includes up and coming local and regional ones. Dozens of fine restaurants satiate the hungry and lifestyle services soothe and pamper the weary. On the topmost level the cinema and entertainment complex is the perfect excuse to unwind in the lap of luxury. This is one place where resistance is futile, so you might as well go with the flow.

Trimming hundreds of trees per km is no bonsai work. All through summer, winter, spring or fall Shanghai's beautifully tree-lined boulevards are maintained by an army of pruners who snip and saw their way through branch and bough to keep their wards in good shape. Some work from the relative safety of mechanised baskets, others hanging on the branches for dear life, tool in hand. It's one sector of the economy where growth has to be kept in check.

Will this passerby pass me by? Here and there beginner entrepreneurs hawk their wares while glancing furtively over their shoulders. While the city booms many eke out a precarious existence selling items like phone cards and watches. Great oaks from little acorns grow. Many tycoons started out with only the shirt on their backs and in time amass a fortune that is the envy of those who come up via an MBA. In this land of unlimited possibilities you never can tell how far you can go, especially with lady luck by your side and guangxi on tap.

The helter-skelter exterior belies the hidden gems awaiting the discerning art hunter inside. Nestled off a busy street here and there all over the city are clusters of converted old buildings that house art galleries showcasing the creative side of Shanghai. This city of 23 million is a powerhouse of artistic pursuits. Here age old traditions like ink and brush are practised alongside contemporary explorations in oils and acrylics. Not forgetting those whose muse is sculpture or installations. The high level of sophistication achieved translates into tastefully designed shop fronts, restaurant interiors, print and electronic media, fashion and home decor. Art permeates all levels of society and daily living from humble papercuts in rural homes to exquisite collections by the new tycoons. Feeding this frenzy for art is an endless stream of exhibitions and master classes by debutante artists and old masters. And at a gallery here you might just be lucky to pick up something by a yet-

As the lights turn green a scramble for placings in the run  to the next signalled junction. While the nouveau riche get around in gleaming rides, the teeming masses still rely on their trusty bicycles, mopeds, scooters and motorcycles which rule the asphalt at rush hour. In this densely populated city, vehicles of all description and sizes jostle for road space even where there are bicycle lanes to help shepherd 2-wheelers safely along. Motorists are generally expected to give way to cyclists but here ego reigns. Big commands respect and small fries on two wheels, or three, press their rights at their own peril. Pedestrians at designated crossings too have to be mindful of this.

Beautifully tended flower beds line the broad walkways with the  Shanghai Grand Theatre in the background. A giant plaza that acts as the lung of the city. Wide walkways are lined with finely manicured lawns and colourful flower beds, providing a welcome respite for tired city dwellers and tourists alike. In this district are sited the Shanghai Museum, Grand Theatre, Concert Hall and Exhibition Centre. Adjacent is the People's Park, a sprawling botanical garden with a small lake lined with tea-houses and coffee joints. An excellent venue for an idyllic afternoon's communion with nature.

Boats ply the Tong Li "water town" as residents relax in the shade. Bustling sun-drenched landing site. A short drive from the city are several ancient water towns such as Tong Li where living on the banks of canals is still a way of life. These rustic villages some dating back to the Ming Dynasty are increasingly serving the tourist trade with quaint souvenir shops, restaurants and tea houses. Petrol driven or muscle-powered, boats that used to carry the village produce are switching to canal cruises for day trippers. One thing remains unchanged – mail still comes by boat for some residents located beside the canals. As boats laden with sightseers zip past each other on the busy waterways, villagers while away the hours watching the world go by, sipping tea and playing their traditional board games like chess, or shuffling cards, cigarettes dangling from their lips, not minding the myriad tourists ogling and clicking away.